. Amplifies Audio Signals From Turntable For Use With Standard Audio Amplifiers. Designed To Work With All Crosley C Series Turntables.
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Compatible With Moving Magnetic Turntables From Other Manufacturers. Metal case shields the electronics from interference. Amplification and RIAA equalization for MM cartridges. Optimal channel separation through dual-mono circuitry. Gold plated RCA connection sockets.
Small size allows installation close to record player. Outboard power supply included.
I bought a PAS-2 a while back for my Dynaco ST-70. I know the st-70 worked because I tested it with a Mc preamp and it sounded very good. Thinking I may have a better match with a Dynaco preamp I bought the Pas-2 on the Bay. It sounds horrible like noise caused from dog and cat fighting!:sigh: This pre looked like somebody already did some modifications with rectifier and a few cap replacements (not all). As I don't want to mess with it I bought another PAS which is PAS-3 from a local guy who sold it as is. Another mistake. The PAS-3 also sounded as bad.
I opened it up and someone already modified it, too. Now I am stuck with 2 crappy preamps and don't know what to do. The only good thing about these pre's are they have the real and good Telefunken tubes. I bought a PAS-2 a while back for my Dynaco ST-70.
I know the st-70 worked because I tested it with a Mc preamp and it sounded very good. Thinking I may have a better match with a Dynaco preamp I bought the Pas-2 on the Bay. It sounds horrible like noise caused from dog and cat fighting!:sigh: This pre looked like somebody already did some modifications with rectifier and a few cap replacements (not all). As I don't want to mess with it I bought another PAS which is PAS-3 from a local guy who sold it as is. Another mistake.
The PAS-3 also sounded as bad. I opened it up and someone already modified it, too. Now I am stuck with 2 crappy preamps and don't know what to do. The only good thing about these pre's are they have the real and good Telefunken tubes. Like they said. Get the construction manual and go through the unit like you were building it for the first time.
Reflow all the solder and so on. Replace the electrolytic caps in the bias supply.
Make an evaluation of the filter can. Many of them are about cooked out. Do the diode conversion for the zener that is advised due to the predictable failure. Substitute some modern film caps (no need to get boutique stuff). Pay attention to the switches which were/are a PITA — and they are OLD! There are better pre-amps on the planet for a price, but the PAS is very pleasent and VERY musical, even in stock form.
If you slide over to Audio Asylum and look for the sponsored forums, you'll see Joe Curcio's 'Dynaco Doctor' forum. In the archives, there is more here about doing exactly what you are faced with than you ever imagined existed. And people will help too. You might think about one of Joe's boards or refresher kits and get it right. Joe offers personal support on this site. I've got a PAS project going right now that is taking forever as other stuff comes and goes ahead of it.
But eventually it will be a slightly altered unit in terms of the phono section. In fact, it will be a dedicated phono amp that will feed my Pioneer SA-8900. I've had this PAS for almost 20 years, and I love the sound of the phono circuit. There are some simple revisions for it described on AA and in the AVA archive (van Alstine). Don't panic — you gone done the right thang! Be safe and observe all the saftey rules for working on electronic circuits. Enjoy, and consider the DIY route.
Your PAS may have been built by someone who knew less than you years ago. It may have worked very well for years until someone diddled with it. Now you can put it right.
It may take TIME, so get something else to listen to while you are going on your adventure. Click to expand.Frankly, that unit doesn't look too bad to me. I looks like whoever worked on it had at least decent workmaship (I can't see the solder joints in the pics, so these might be cold). What I do see is that sombody has clearly replaced all of your electrolitics at some point, and a few random coupling caps as well.
So it is possible that electrolitics are still fine, assuming that this work was not done 20+ years ago. But you need to replace all of your remaining coupling caps.
All of those 'black cat' capacitors are paper (I think), and may be getting pretty leaky by now. I see no evidence from your pictures of any sort of Zener diode modifications to your power supply. I simply see a replaced Selenium rectifier (which is a good thing).:thmbsp. While I agree with Pak that the basic design has some serious issues, I think that these can be very decent sounding units when upgraded, and (this is critical) optimally loaded.
I ran a modified pas for many years before upgrading to something better. But I agree that these are great units for cutting your DIY teeth on though. I'm kind-of picky about capacitors, so I might not be the best person to ask about this. But on a budget, some orange drops should suffice.
You need to replace all of the black capcitors. And if you want better sound, bypassing the tone controls is a good idea (and this will also dramatically shorten your parts list. PAS schematics are easily found online. Do a google search, and you will find multiple copies. Goood luck!:thmbsp. My two bits: Pak is right in one way, but no doubt he is used to superior machinary. He does not want you to be disappointed.
Even so, in another way, I wanna say. That the PAS is more euphonic than a lot of modern preamp sections — IMHO. In recent months, I listened to my old PAS from years ago.
![P10 P10](http://www.hifido.co.jp/photo/13/005/00547/c.jpg)
I was surprised at just how good it was — DEAD STOCK! And I am referring to just pure, musical enjoyment! The sort of time that you kick back with a big glass of claret. You miss some detail and resolution, but it DOES tunes. I think that the secret here is to not get fancy. IMO, if you get caps for it, don't spend big bucks. If you can get them easily, Sprague Orange Drops are cool, Otherwise just grab some Mylar/polyester film caps from the local shop and replace those Black Cats.
This amp will be an excellent start into the electronics adventure. And the beauty is, the unit was designed for amateurs like you and me to work on. YOUR PICS: the electrolytic capacitors look to be of modern vintage. They should be OK. And the multi-section filter capacitor (the big silver cylinder) APPEARS to be a replacement. Who is the maker?
Read what is written on the can for capacity in uF (micro farads) and get back to us. There should be (4) figures, because it is actually four capacitors in one container.
The figures will tell us if the can contains the stock capacitance values, or (B) if it is a kudged substitute. It is possible to overdo the supply filters and stress some tube or other. More L is fine, but there are limits, especially in regards to a specific section. Check the tubes! First check to see if they are the correct tubes. The four 12AX7's should last forever.
And the rectifier tube 12X4 is usually a good original. Perhaps you have no access to a tube tester — hmmmm. Any AK’ers in your area who could lend you some known tubes? If not, two new budget 12AX7’s are an easy item to get, and you can test the amp section, and alternately the equalization/phono board. And if you can’t ascertain the integrity of the rectifier tube, you need to take some voltage readings with a VOM — while observing all the saftey rules!!!!
And using the schematic that you can download free on the net. Gently clean the socket pins with DeOxit.
Until the unit is running nicely, if I were you, I'd pull out the indicator lamp. Pak is absolutley right about the lamp. He was not joking. After you get the PAS running nicley, you can decide if you want to change this bulb to an LCD which runs at less power.
The stock lamp pulls power away from a supply that is just barely up to the challenge. This was not a mistake. The designer was designing the unit to be affordable to the most people. The best sound for the best price to the most people — that was the design philosophy. Some people sneer at this, but there is a movement in some quarters to get back to that idea.
Go to Joe' Curcio's site and download the manual for the the tone control deletion — especially considering that you have the PAS-2, and not the 3X model that had the capacity to take the tone controls out of circuit. There are a lot of small electrolytic caps on these controls. If you should leave the controls in-circuit, they should be replaced. And any others on other switches that are not deleted in this process should be replaced. As a rule, small caps may dry out and become defective before larger ones.
ALL the rotating switches on the PAS are unsealed sweeper switches. They are just begging for trouble. Get some DeOxIt spray and a thousand Q-tips.
And here is where you can screw up — BE GENTLE! Spray and gently wipe the black/green crud on the swept traces.
Do it in VERY good light. Take your time and remember — if you bend the sweepers or distort the traces on these switches, you will face a challenge as to how and replace them. Curcio Audio supplies a new fiberglass selector switch, if you should decide to go that route later.
But for now, get those switches squeaky clean. You will get there eventually. Just plug away, and later you will be teaching someone else. In old audio, time is the deciding factor along with effort that is nearly always rewarded. I say 'nearly', because we can become foolish and lavish very expensive parts on units that may not realise the investment.
And some (not all) of these expensive parts are quite frankly scams used to suck money out of the enthusiast. Use good commercial grade parts and get it working — job 1. The fellow of revered memory who engineered much of the Dyna gear designed these rigs to use what was then the industrial standard. By and large, that standard has improved by virtue of research, materials and progress in production technique. If you buy reputable stuff, you will get the 'good sound' and you'll be pleased. By the same token, a really good bottle of plonk always seems to be more enjoyable than a disappointing bottle of expensive, certified vintage.
Millions before you have enjoyed the PAS which is EXACTLY what the designer intended!